In 1902, David Moffat founded the Denver, Northwestern & Pacific Railroad with the aim of traversing the continental divide to connect Denver and Salt Lake City without a lengthy detour around most challenging parts of the Rockies. The original plan alotted 2-3 years for a tunnel near Rollins Pass, with a temporary route over the pass during construction.

The treacherous temporary route was known as the ‘Moffat Road’ and it operated for much longer than planned – 24 years – until the Colorado legislature funded and built the long-planned tunnel. Upon its completion in 1928, 17 years after the death of Moffat himself, the Moffat Tunnel opened and finally made the hill route obselete.

Since the removal of the tracks in 1935, the Moffat Road has been a popular destination for recreation. Until the late 80s it was possible to traverse the whole route by car, with the National Forest Service supplying drivers with brochures for a self-guided tour, including the map below:

In 1990, the Needle’s Eye Tunnel near the top of the route collapsed for the second time and the top of the pass was closed to cars, but the whole thing remains passable on foot or by bike. I’ve been up each side independently, from Rollinsville to the East, and from Winter Park to the West, but today we’re going all the way over the top to traverse both eras of Moffat’s vision, first on a bike, then by train.

The Plan

Leaving early in the morning, I’ll ride out of Denver towards Golden, climb Golden Gate Canyon towards Rollinsville, then join the original Moffat Road route. From there, I’ll cross over Rollins Pass and descend back down into Fraser, then take Amtrak back to Denver via the Moffat Tunnel that inspired this whole journey.

Route

The Attempt

Leaving Denver at sunrise - we’ve got a train to catch in a mere 9 hours.

Miles: 0.0
Elevation: 5,213 ft
Ride Time: 0:00

Rolling into Golden to start climbing

Miles: 12.9
Elevation: 5,684 ft
Ride Time: 0:52

Heading up Golden Gate Canyon

Miles: 20.1
Elevation: 7,327 ft
Ride Time: 1:41

A brief downhill on the way up Golden Gate - very thankful for the break.

Miles: 22.0
Elevation: 7,537 ft
Ride Time: 1:55

Rolling into Rollinsville - we’ll be on these tracks later.

Miles: 38.4
Elevation: 8,668 ft
Ride Time: 3:26

After a coffee stop in Rollinsville, it’s time to turn off the Peak to Peak Highway and onto the dirt. We’re now running alongside the train tracks on the way to the pass.

Miles: 39.0
Elevation: 8,668 ft
Ride Time: 4:06

After 5 miles of smooth dirt, it’s time to hit the bumpy stuff up the old Moffat Road.

Miles: 46.0
Elevation: 9,208 ft
Ride Time: 4:50

Looking back the way we came from the first set of switchbacks. The road is in rough shape and extremely rocky, but the grade is never too steep.

Miles: 48.1
Elevation: 9,622 ft
Ride Time: 5:08

As we cross 10,000 feet, snow blocking the path starts to be an issue. No problem getting around this one, but I had to get off and hike through a few more stubborn drifts later in the ride.

Miles: 54.1
Elevation: 10,528 ft
Ride Time: 6:00

Target spotted - we’re headed for the Needle’s Eye Tunnel, which pokes through the rightmost peak pictured above.

Miles: 54.7
Elevation: 10,637 ft
Ride Time: 6:07

Yankee Doodle Lake - the pile of rubble on the right edge of the lake originates from a failed tunnelling attempt in the late 1800s.

Miles: 55.3
Elevation: 10,739 ft
Ride Time: 6:14

Rounding the next set of switchbacks, we have the Needle’s Eye Tunnel squarely in sight - just a bit more climbing to go. Progress has slowed significantly with more and more snow to trudge through.

Miles: 57.8
Elevation: 11,210 ft
Ride Time: 6:58

Looking down at Jenny Lake from Needle’s Eye. This is a natural lake, but was dammed so the railroad could reliably use it to refill the water tanks in their steam locomotives.

Miles: 58.7
Elevation: 11,375 ft
Ride Time: 7:13

Needle’s Eye Tunnel up close - it collapsed in 1990, closing the route to cars and motorcycles. Cyclists and hikers can still get through, it just requires a very steep hike over the peak.

Miles: 58.7
Elevation: 11,375 ft
Ride Time: 7:13

Devil’s Slide Trestle. Paired with its twin bridge just a bit further down the road, this view is what drew me up here for the first time.

Miles: 59.3
Elevation: 11,478 ft
Ride Time: 7:28

Phantom Bridge. We’re about 1000 feet above Boulder Creek here. It’s not too bad on a bike, but I’m not sure I’d be so confident going over this span while riding on tens of thousands of pounds of steam train.

Miles: 59.4
Elevation: 11:503 ft
Ride Time: 7:29

Type 2 fun complete - time to coast down into town, passing Mount Epworth and Deadman Lake.

Miles: 61.6
Elevation: 11,609 ft
Ride Time: 7:50

Riflesight Notch Trestle. The concave hillside on the right is another collapsed tunnel from the old route. Trains would pass through the hillside, loop back on the far side, then cross the bridge:

Miles: 64.2
Elevation: 11,073 ft
Ride Time: 8:02

Making questionable choices in Safeway to fuel back up after a long day.

Miles: 78.7
Elevation: 8,669 ft
Ride Time: 8:52

Made it to the station in Fraser with plenty of time - I got a text just before leaving cell service in Rollinsville that the train would be delayed by 2 hours.